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Freiräume

– beigetragen von Stefan Seefelder

Es hat dreiunddreißig Grad, etwa 19.00 Uhr, wir stehen auf dem großen Marktplatz von Sopron und überlegten, wie wir wohl die kommende Stunde abreißen könnten, bis es endlich in das Restaurant gehen würde, wo Fleischplatten und Bier den Abend sicherlich um einiges angenehmer gestalten würden.

Man sitzt dort also auf weißen Gartenstühlen aus Gusseisen, deren Form und Muster entweder eine Remineszenz oder ein Relikt der 50er Jahre sind, und lässt sich von der frühmodernen Kulisse des Marktplatzes überfluten. Die Architektur, die unverkennbar die Handschrift der alten Habsburgermonarchie trägt, wirkt gleichzeitig beruhigend und wuchtig, und nichts deutet darauf hin, dass auch dieser aus der Zeit gefallene Marktplatz Teil eines Plattenbau-und-Paradestraßen-Sozialismus war.

Denn: Wo früher vielleicht die von Kunstinteressierten hochgeschätzten futuristisch-eckigen Menschen auf Plakaten, Wandreliefs oder Statuen die Glorie der Arbeiterschaft abbildeten, läuft heute Jimi Hendrix und Supertramp aus im Gebüsch versteckten Lautsprechern. Das ist surreal, und auch ein wenig schizophren.

Der klassizistische Bau, der sich damit schmückt, einst Franz Liszt beherbergt zu haben, wird von einem etwa 70-jährigen ungarischen Bluesrock-Fan geleitet, der beinahe sein ganzes Leben im Sozialismus verbracht haben muss.

Ein Restaurant, das ein Kondensationspunkt für alles dient, was Ungarn im Sozialismus war: Progressiv, Untergrund, Gemütlichkeit, so dass man bei Gulasch über den Gulaschkommunismus reden kann.

Das ungarische Regime war nicht so wie die (post-)stalinistischen Systeme der DDR und der Tschechoslowakei, die die repressivsten des Warschauer Paktes waren. Die Menschen in Ungarn konnten sich Freiräume schaffen, sei es durch den eigenen Gemüsegarten oder „Fuschi“:

Wenn jemand etwas benötigt, stellt er es in seiner Fabrik an seinem Arbeitsplatz her, mit staatlichen Teilen und Maschinen, behält es dann entweder für sich selbst oder tauscht es gegen das Erzeugnis eines anderen Arbeiters. Auf diese Weise wurden ganze Straßen und Häuserzeilen errichtet, und die Menschen konnten ihre materielle Not etwas abfedern, während die staatlichen Organe beide Augen zugedrückt haben. In Ungarn gab es keine Stasi und keine Securitate, und der Zusammenbruch des kommunistischen Regimes war kein Donnerschlag, sondern ein sanftes Hinabgleiten in bessere Zustände. In diesem Sinne ist das Restaurant auf dem weiten und leeren Marktplatz eine Verkörperung des Freiraums, es läuft keine Schunkelmusik für Rentner und auch keine kitschige Folklore für Touristen, sondern eben Rock ´n´ Roll, weil es dem Wirt nunmal so gefällt.

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