by Isabell Frank and Nils Ohnesorge

Thanks to an online exchange between Seikei University and Freie Universität Berlin, we had the opportunity to ask Japanese students about their daily eating habits and their perception of Western cuisine. Isabell and our classmate Julia had the pleasure of interviewing Akari*, a student at Seikei University, about her eating habits, her experiences abroad, and Japanese perceptions of Western cuisine. The interview was conducted via Zoom. Since Akari speaks English almost like a native speaker, they decided to conduct most of the interview in English.

Akari leads a life that is quite unusual for Japan. Due to her parents‘ work, she lived in Singapore and India for about seven years before returning to Japan at the age of eleven. Attending an international kindergarten and elementary school is reflected in her exceptional English skills. Surprisingly, her mother was able to cook Japanese food for her even while they were abroad, as there were Japanese supermarkets there that sold the necessary ingredients. As for daily meals, Akari’s mother cooks her dinner, which usually consists of Japanese, Chinese, or Italian cuisine. For lunch, she either eats a homemade bentō (lunch box), eats at the university cafeteria, or buys her lunch at a konbini (convenience store). She is quite picky about vegetables, but she tries her best to eat them because she doesn’t want to waste food. She considers this a trait of Japanese people. The food she cannot live without is Japanese rice, but since the price has doubled in the last year, she cannot eat it as often as she would like. When asked what image Japanese people have of German cuisine, she jokingly admits that it mainly revolves around beer and sausages. Akari also mentioned that some foreign cuisines, such as French cuisine, are considered luxurious and are only eaten on special occasions. Many young Japanese girls like Korean and Italian cuisine and choose restaurants based on their aesthetics, as they want to post photos of their visit on Instagram.

Nils and his classmate Mohammad conducted another interview with Keisuke.* We agreed to conduct the interview in English. Keisuke did very well. In the beginning, we were perhaps a little shy and awkward, but quickly warmed up and both sides enjoyed the relaxed conversation. We talked about the globalization of different cuisines, and Keisuke shared his experiences traveling abroad and sharing meals with international friends. Seikei University hosts cultural exchange events like international food parties, where Keisuke tried and liked sweets from the Philippines. He also mentioned that one can find any kind of cuisine in Tokyo. He told us that his Chinese friends preferred Chinese cuisine in Japan. When he travelled to Europe, Keisuke noticed that Japanese restaurants are usually fusion or mixed Asian restaurants. When Nils asked about European restaurants in Japan, we realized that in Japan, too, menus often offer a mix of dishes from different countries, for example, a mix of French and Italian dishes. At that point, Keisuke remembered a French restaurant that served Italian desserts. We realized that when it comes to food, cuisines are often reduced to stereotypes. While this can help to associate a country with a particular cuisine and thus highlight a specific dish, it is also a shame that other dishes may not get a chance in international conversations.

The interviews were for both of us an enjoyable and valuable experience and helped us gain insight into the everyday culinary lives of Japanese university students and how they view Western cuisine. Especially in regard to our own research project, which focuses on Japanese migrants’ perception of German food, we noticed that a similar image is associated with German cuisine. Both of our interviewees did not really think about German cuisine until this point and only associated it with beer and sausages. Keisuke also admitted that reducing German cuisine to only beer and sausages is very stereotypical and that he would not like it if people only associated Japanese cuisine with sushi.

*The names of the Japanese students are pseudonyms.

Nils Ohnesorge is a student in the Master program Global East Asia at Freie Universität Berlin. Isabell Frank is a student in the Master program Japanese Studies at Freie Universität Berlin.

by Cornelia Reiher

On June 28, the annual Long Night of Science once again opened its doors to the public—and this year, the Japanese Studies Institute, supported by 25 enthusiastic student volunteers, made a lasting impression. Across two rooms, we presented a lively and engaging program that offered something for visitors of all ages.

In the main activity room, six hands-on stations invited guests to immerse themselves in various aspects of Japanese culture. Participants could make their own onigiri, try out traditional calligraphy and suminagashi (Japanese marbling), fold intricate origami, create colorful temari balls, or challenge friends in the popular „edamame chopstick challenge.“ Another station offered opportunities to learn basic Japanese vocabulary or engage in conversations about Japan. The stalls were continuously bustling with eager visitors—so much so that even after many other exhibits had closed, guests continued to arrive late into the evening.

In the other room we screened the short films created by students from Japanese studies in the research and teaching project “Berlin’s Japanese foodscape“ over the past ten years. Seeing the films on the big screen was quite impressive.

We also hosted a panel discussion on the Japanese foodscape in Berlin with student filmmaker Richard Han, food writer and educator Debra Samuels, and JETRO representative and Japanese restaurant guide author Yumiko Sato to discuss how the Japanese foodscape in Berlin has changed over time. Following the panel discussion, two of our students gave short presentations on their own research. Cosmo Hümmer spoke about sports clubs in Japan and Jakob Hausburg introduced Kabuki to the audience.

Judging by the steady flow of visitors and enthusiastic feedback, the Japanese Studies event was very popular. Yet the success of the event wasn’t only due to public interest—it was also thanks to the dedication, creativity, and teamwork of our student volunteers. Despite the long and hot day, they gave their all, bringing energy and warmth to every part of the program.

A heartfelt thank you to everyone who contributed to the planning, execution, and cleanup of this memorable evening. It was truly a shared endeavor in every sense.

by Cornelia Reiher

After our first onsite interview in English at Sake Kontor, our course visited a ramen restaurant in Berlin a week later. We had an appointment with Ribeka Sakamoto, the manager of Niko Niko Ramen, to conduct an interview in Japanese. Since not all course participants speak Japanese, those who were not asking questions were assigned to observe the interview situation and write fieldnotes about the atmosphere and the interactions in the restaurant.

When we arrived at the restaurant, it was noon and the weather was warm and sunny. Customers were sitting outside, enjoying their bowl of ramen for lunch. We stepped inside and were seated in the guestroom. The rustic interior, decorated with anime motifs and Japanese pop culture references, created an inviting and relaxed atmosphere, helping students feel comfortable right away. Following the customary exchange of business cards and thank you gifts, students started to ask the questions they had prepared in advance.

Topics included Ribeka’s migration story, her personal favorite Japanese dishes, the history and concept of the restaurant, and customer preferences in Berlin compared to those in Japan. Being multilingual herself, Ribeka tries to hire staff who speak English, German and ideally Japanese because of the international customers the restaurant attracts. More important than language skills, however, is that the staff are passionate and do their job well. Ribeka also shared interesting observations about the preferences of the restaurants’ European customers who do not seem to like katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) and fish in general as much as the few Asian customers frequenting the restaurant. However, most of the customers are familiar with ramen when they come to Niko Niko Ramen and the most frequently asked questions about the dishes are whether the noodles are gluten-free— a sign of dietary awareness and food preferences in Berlin.

After the interview, everyone ordered a bowl of their preferred ramen. Thanks to the restaurant’s inclusive menu, which has offered vegetarian and vegan options from the very beginning, everyone found something they could enjoy. Several students who had previously traveled to Japan commented that the flavors at Niko Niko Ramen were just as authentic as those they remembered from their time abroad.

This visit offered students not only a chance to practice fieldwork and language skills in a real-world setting, but also valuable insights into the cultural translation of food and hospitality. Interviews like this one highlight how culinary spaces serve as contact zones—where global migration, local taste, and tradition intersect in the everyday ritual of sharing a meal. Thank you so much, Ribeka Sakamoto for your time!

by Cornelia Reiher

On June 13, 2025, our social science methods class embarked on a unique excursion: a field visit and live interview at Sake Kontor, a specialized sake shop in Berlin. That day, the shop itself was calm and Anselm, the sales manager, had enough time to answer our questions with a mix of humor and candor. The students had prepared questions in English in advance and took turns asking Anselm about his job, the sake world and the store.

Anselm shared educational materials and guided us through the essentials of sake. We also discussed the shop’s customer base. According to Anselm, most people who enter the shop already know what sake is. However, when he represents the shop at department stores in Germany, he often meets people unfamiliar with the drink.

We learned that, in addition to retail, Sake Kontor supplies restaurants—including many Vietnamese-owned establishments—and sells products through an online shop. Despite having a small team, they remain active in the food and beverage industry by attending trade shows and various events, visiting restaurants across Germany, and organizing tastings.

Amidst the current sake boom in Berlin, social media plays a role in the company’s visibility. However, their strength lies in long-standing relationships with sake breweries in Japan and word of mouth. Many customers have traveled to Japan and appreciate that their favorite Japanese drink is available in Berlin, too. The shop’s busiest season is Christmas, when sake becomes a popular gift item.

Toward the end of our visit, Anselm treated us to two sake tastings. The first sake was fruity, while the second was less so, offering an interesting contrast. Both samples gave us a hands-on understanding of the cultural and economic value of premium sake. Some students who did not study Japan had sake for the first time, and the tasting and interview made a strong impression on them. Students learned that on-site interviews offer many opportunities to ask questions that researchers might not consider in different settings, such as online interviews.

We left Sake Kontor with new perspectives on sake and on how businesses like Sake Kontor navigate changing consumer tastes, global logistics, and cultural education. For the students, it was an exciting, hands-on, on-site interview experience and a reminder of how much can be learned when theory meets the real world—over a cup of sake. I am grateful to Anselm for his time and for inviting us to Sake Kontor. Thank you!

by Christoph Barann

This year, our class conducted interviews with Japanese university students about food as part of the master’s seminar on methodology and fieldwork in an annual cooperation with Seikei University in Tokyo. The class this year was open not only to students on the Master’s program in Japanese Studies, but also to students on the Master’s program in Global East Asia, which meant that some of the participants could not speak Japanese. Nevertheless, the division of labor within the groups went smoothly, as those who did not speak Japanese helped prepare the questions in advance and acted as observers during the interview, focusing on nonverbal aspects like body language and tone of voice.

The interviews were helpful as most of my classmates did not possess previous experience with interviewing native Japanese speakers. It was further useful in giving us an opportunity to conduct digital interviews through platforms like Zoom and Microsoft Teams. Experiencing possible obstructions, such as connectivity issues, with these digital interviews will be helpful in future situations.

We also learned through the interviews and later discussions within our class about specific things to consider in interviews. One of these aspects is the idea of starting off with simple questions that might engage the interviewee and to keep in mind a prepared structure to the interview while still allowing for open and developing discussion. The interviews as well as the prior preparation later group discussion were valuable experiences which helped us gain a deeper inside in the aspects which influence the efficiency of interviews. I would recommend the class to other students who are intending on conducting field work and qualitative research in and about Japan in the future.

by Kota Yamawaki and Hirotaro Yanase

In May 2025, students from Seikei University and FU Berlin met for online interviews about food culture and everyday eating practices in Japan again. This collaboration started during the COVID-19 pandemic and we have arranged for our students to meet online every year since then. Thank you, Yoko Kawamura for this wonderful collaboration! In this post, two students from Seikei University report on their experiences.

Kota wrote:

First of all, thanks a lot for the chance to talk with students from a German university! It was super fun to chat about each other’s food culture. I first got in touch with the students on Instagram, and we had some cool conversations mixing English and Japanese. During the interview, my partners were really friendly and always smiling, so I didn’t feel nervous at all. When they asked me how people in Japan see German food, I thought, “Wow, that’s an interesting question!” I realized I only had sausages in mind when I thought of German food. It’s kind of like when Japanese people say, “Hey, Japanese food isn’t just sushi!” — I bet Germans feel the same way about their food. I thought they’d learn more about Japanese food through the interview, but honestly, I ended up getting more curious about German food instead! Luckily, I’m planning to study abroad in Europe this year, and I want to visit Germany and try the food there. Hopefully, I can meet the two students from the interview again too! Thank you again for giving me such a wonderful opportunity.

Hirotaro wrote:

I had been looking forward to this interview and conversation with students from a German university. Both were very polite and kind, speaking slowly and listening patiently to my imperfect English. Regarding the questions, I had never thought so deeply about what we eat in daily life, so some of them were a little bit difficult to answer. However, this experience could be a great opportunity for deeper reflection. For instance, during the interview, I started wondering about the meaning of „洋食“ (yōshoku). „洋食“ refers to a category of food that can be translated as „Western,“ but it is quite different from authentic Western dishes. Examples include hamburger, steak, omurice and so on. I realized that this type of food is a product of cultural interaction: an attempt to modify foreign foods to suit Japanese tastes, resulting in entirely new and delicious dishes. In this way, the interview sparked my curiosity about the food we eat. Since my major is „International Cultural Studies,“ I felt a strong connection between this discussion and my academic field. I would like to express my sincere gratitude for this valuable opportunity.

by Cornelia Reiher

For the tenth time, the methods course „Berlin’s Japanese Foodscapes“ will take place this summer semester at Freie Universität Berlin. Students from the new Global East Asia Master’s program will also participate this year. Thus, we will continue to explore East Asian cuisines in Berlin beyond the city’s Japanese foodscape. As always, the course includes hands-on activities such as interviews with guests from East Asian restaurants, restaurant excursions, and student research projects. Once again, we have partnered with Yoko Kawamura and her students from Seikei University in Tokyo to provide our students with the opportunity to experiment with the online interview format. The students have already conducted their interviews, successfully tested their Japanese language skills, and gained interesting insights into the eating habits of Japanese students. They have formed groups and begun developing their own research projects on culinary globalization and East Asian cuisine in Berlin. As always, we will document the projects‘ results, as well as our impressions from the excursions and interviews, on this blog. Stay tuned for updates!

by Lidia Gaspara Salvador

Boxhagener Platz in Berlin on a Saturday evening: The queue at the entrance to Weng Cheng 3 is long and me and my friends decide to go to the next restaurant just a few meters away and see if we have any better luck finding a table at MOIM, a Korean restaurant. However, the restaurant is also full. I check my saved restaurants on Google Maps and remember that a new ramen place opened two streets away a few weeks ago and decide to check it out and tick another restaurant off my list to find the tastiest and most authentic ramen in town. This scenario might not be unfamiliar to many and could be a regular part of people’s weekend plans. “Where do we want to go for dinner?”, “I’ve sent you a reel with a restaurant that I want to try, lets’ go there for dinner!”, kickstarts the search for a place that not only offers delicious food, but also an authentic insight into the country’s cuisine.

At Boxhagener Platz in particular, it is interesting to see how you can supposedly take a trip through East Asian countries such as Japan, Korea or China in just a few minutes by hopping from restaurant to restaurant. It is also interesting to note that fusion cuisine restaurants have sprung up in the area, not only serving East Asian cuisine, but also localizing the dishes.

Three questions arise from this observation: What is an authentic dining experience and what does it mean to localize one’s own cuisine? Further, does authenticity really matter? At Boxhagener Platz it is easy to feel as if you are on a food adventure, always looking for a new, exotic restaurant to try. The term food adventurer was shaped by the author Lisa Heldke and illustrates the human desire for novelty in culinary experiences. Food adventurers seek out new and exotic dishes. In her book “Exotic Appetites – Ruminations of a Food Adventurer”, published in 2003, Heldke describes that seeking out exotic cuisines is sometimes less about genuine cultural appreciation and more about accruing social status or „cultural capital.“ This quickly can become a slippery slope between cultural appropriation, commodifying ethnic foods and appreciating the cultural exchange through food. The notion of what is considered „authentic“ often aligns with the preconceptions of the food adventures rather than reflecting the lived reality of those within the culture. This can lead to a distorted view of what truly represents a cuisine and the appreciation for the adaptation of dishes, which also represent the willingness of one culture to be part of an exchange.

To find out how this quest for novelty affects different cuisines, let’s take a look at the menu at Shōdo Udon Lab located at Boxhagner Platz. The menu includes traditional versions of udon as well as starters such as “Miso Avocado” or “Takuan Cream Cheese”, which is a pickled radish covered in cream cheese. Neither of these items would be found in a local Japanese udon restaurant but seem to be a staple on the Shōdo menu.  In the menu, the “Bacon Kamatama Udon” is described as „warm udon noodles, bukkake egg yolk sauce, butter, bacon tempura, shredded parmesan, pepper and spring onion“, which, judging by the ingredients, sounds like a rendition of the Italian dish carbonara. Udon and carbonara? Sounds like an interesting combination.

However, restaurants such as Menchirashi in Tokyo’s Shibuya have a version of Carbonara Udon on their menu as well, attracting locals and tourists alike through social media with their fusion of Italian and Japanese cuisine. At my visit at both Menchirashi and Shōdo Udon Lab, this twist on Japanese udon seemed to be an especially popular order with costumers. As food can be seen as a local, individual choice based on personal preferences, it in fact is much more than that. Food can also be considered as a global commodity used and shaped by different actors, depending on their intention. Based on Christle Lane’s (2011) definition, in our example of Carbonara Udon, glocalization refers to the adaptation of a cuisine to align with the tastes, preferences, cultural norms and ingredients of a particular region, in that case Western taste. This concept combines two aspects: Firstly, “globalization”, which entails the worldwide spread of resources and secondly, “localization”, which tailors said resources to the local markets. Not only new creations like Carbonara Udon are an example of glocalization, but let’s remember the side dishes. The adjustment of flavor or the substitution of ingredients are key features of glocalization as well. Another example is the spice level of Chinese dishes and regional and seasonal vegetables that are being incorporated into dishes, cutting costs and providing a staple supply for restaurants throughout the year.  

So, does authenticity really matter? Rather than worrying about authenticity, as food adventurers we should be open to what these adaptations can tell us about cultural exchange through food and the livelihoods of the people behind the restaurants. So, as a challenge to all of us, next time on our journey as Food Adventurers, let’s try to look for clues and signs that tell us not only about the changes and adaptations that menus have gone through, but also about other social implications that might be connected to them.

References

Heldke, Lisa M. (2003): Exotic appetites. Ruminations of a food adventurer. New York, N.Y.: Routledge. Online verfügbar unter http://www.loc.gov/catdir/enhancements/fy0651/2002156317-d.html.

Lane, Christel (2011): Culinary culture and globalization: an analysis of British and German Michelin-starred restaurants. In: The British Journal of Sociology 62 (4), S. 696–717. DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-4446.2011.01387.x.

Lidia Gaspara Salvador is a student in the Master program Japanese Studies at Freie Universität Berlin

by Hanna Hetterling

Step into any trendy café in Berlin, and the menu is bound to have a splash of green. It’s not just avocado anymore—it’s matcha! This powdered green tea isn’t just a drink; it’s an icon of wellness, tradition, and modern innovation. Matcha has made its way from the tea rooms of Japan to your Instagram feed and all over the world. Whether it’s served as a latte, baked into cakes, or even shaken into cocktails, matcha is the darling of every trendy café’s menu. But what makes this vibrant powder so irresistible? Matcha, a finely ground powder derived from the leaves of the Camellia sinensis plant, traces its roots back to the Tang Dynasty in China (618-907 CE) (Tea & Coffee Trade Journal 2024).  Thanks to Zen Buddhist monks, powdered tea found its way to Japan around the 12th century. One monk in particular, Eisai, brought tea seeds and the knowledge of making powdered tea from China to Japan. The Japanese prized matcha for its calming effects and ability to aid meditation and it became a popular staple (Mamiya 2024; MoyaMatcha.com 2021).

The Japanese tea ceremony sado, developed during the 15th and 16th centuries, transformed the preparation and consumption of matcha into an art form focused on mindfulness, simplicity, and the appreciation of beauty in everyday moments. Participants would whisk the fine green powder with hot water using a bamboo whisk, creating a frothy, vibrant green tea that embodies the essence of serenity and focus (MoyaMatcha.com, 2021). Matcha began its international ascent in the early 2000s, thanks to the rising interest in wellness and Japanese cuisine. Foodies and health enthusiasts were drawn to matcha’s rich umami flavor and its purported health benefits, such as high antioxidant content and natural energy boosts (Tea & Coffee Trade Journal 2024). The green tea is known for its earthy, pungent taste – opposers of the matcha movement often describing it as grassy – which comes from its high chlorophyll levels. The rise of social media further propelled matcha into the global spotlight. Its vibrant green color made it a photogenic eyecatcher on Instagram and TikTok, appearing in everything from pancakes to ice cream. Celebrities and influencers started endorsing matcha for its „clean“ energy and wellness properties, solidifying its status as a lifestyle symbol. Matcha’s merit also lies in its versatility; while traditional preparation involves whisking matcha with hot water, modern recipes have reinvented it for Western palates. Matcha can be served hot or cold, and the possibilities are endless: from its traditional form to bubble teas, cocktails or iced lattes, there are no limits of creation. And this doesn’t only apply for beverages; matcha has transformed into a popular ingredient for fusion desserts like tiramisu, pancakes, mousse, cakes, ice cream, confectionary, and matcha flavored candy. Its Fans are becoming even more adventurous by pushing boundaries, and using matcha in recipes like pasta and salad dressings.

The world is seeing green, and Berlin is no exception. Known for its culturally diverse and dynamic food scene, Berlin has fully embraced the matcha millennium: Whether you’re in a minimalist coffee shop in Charlottenburg or a hipster brunch spot in Prenzlauer Berg, matcha has won over the hearts and taste buds all over the city. Numerous cafés and eateries have introduced a range of matcha-infused products to cater to the health-conscious and aesthetically inclined. After reports from the Guardian, the obsession over the green powder further fueled by TikTok even sparked concerns about a possible global shortage of matcha (Thou 2024). Matcha’s global success isn’t just about taste—it’s about what it represents. In an era where wellness and sustainability are paramount, matcha checks all the boxes. Matcha is celebrated as a superfood for good reason. Unlike regular green tea, where leaves are steeped and discarded, matcha involves consuming the entire leaf. This process delivers higher concentrations of nutrients: Matcha is packed with antioxidants, particularly EGCG, which combat free radicals and promote cellular health (Tea & Coffee Trade Journal 2024). Green is quite literally the new black! Many coffee lovers have switched from their usual cup of Joe to the humble green tea powder. Matcha lattes in particular are one of the go-to alternatives for coffee addicts, offering a gentler caffeine kick without the jitters.

Matcha’s rise from its origins to a global phenomenon shows the extraordinary globalization of East Asian cuisine and reflects its unique ability to adapt while staying true to its roots. In Berlin, it’s not just a drink; it’s a cultural experience that bridges health, sustainability, and creativity. As the world continues to embrace matcha, its story serves as a reminder of how something so ancient can feel modern. If you are curious or need a new café recommendation in Berlin, places like Paper&Tea, Matchashop, Matchasome, and Tenzan Lab have a variety on matcha delights (Tip Berlin, 2021). Go try it out yourself! Matcha is the new MVP of beverages and, judging its prevalence compared to other trends (sorry, tumeric lattes!), it is here to stay. So, the next time you sip on a matcha latte in your favorite café, remember: you’re not just indulging in a trend. You’re partaking in a centuries-old tradition that’s found its way into the heart of contemporary culture.

References:

Tea & Coffee Trade Journal (2024), Ceremonial to TikTok Trending: The Evolution of Matcha. https://www.teaandcoffee.net/feature/35258/ceremonial-to-tiktok-trending-the-evolution-of-matcha/

Guardian News and Media (2024, July 31). The New Green Giant: How Matcha took over the world. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/food/article/2024/jul/31/the-new-green-giant-how-matcha-took-over-the-world

Mamiya, K. (2024). The Rise of Matcha: The History of Japan’s Most Famous Powder. YEDOENSIS. https://yedoensis.com/blogs/news/the-historical-journey-of-matcha

MoyaMatcha.com (2021, January 22). The history of Matcha – Moya Matcha. Moya Matcha. https://moyamatcha.com/en/moya-matcha/history-of-matcha/

Thou, S. (2024, November 27). Mo matcha mo problem? How to get your green tea fix in a global matcha shortage. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/food/2024/nov/26/mo-matcha-mo-problem-how-to-get-your-green-tea-fix-in-a-global-matcha-shortage   

Hanna Hetterling is a student in the Master program Global East Asia at Freie Universität Berlin.

by Ying Wang and Dai Yu

With the rapid globalization since the 1980s, East Asian cultures were appreciated and consumed by many people around the world. Culinary culture is pivotal in cross-cultural encounters. By exploring the stories behind a Chinese restaurant in Berlin, this post aims to reveal how culinary culture plays a role in maintaining cultural identity and enhance the prosperity of the local community. We draw on immersive experience and oral history to reflect on Berlin’s contemporary multiculturalism. Chen’s Wok in Berlin provides a variety of Chinese cuisines for residents nearby in Charlottenburg. It’s popular among many students who study at the Technical University of Berlin due to its vicinity to this university. Of course, it also attracts many clients who work in the Deutsch Bank building across the street from the restaurant. The restaurant is well-renovated with a hybrid style of modern and Chinese elements and uses purple as the main color of chair covers to demonstrate a sense of warmth and hospitality. To get firsthand experience and excavate stories behind it, we visited the restaurant several times.

There are various specialties on the menu, mainly from Sichuan, Jiangzhe and Guangdong regions like Dim Sum, homemade noodles, Gong-Bao chicken, Yu Xiang-style pork, fish in hot chili oil. The menu indicates that all meals are served with rice freshly prepared and without the use of glutamate (MSG). We ordered beef in hot chili oil (less spicy and without garlic) and sweet-sour fried pork. There were pork trotters as a complimentary appetizer. The beef in hot chili oil was quite good, with the stove and direct flame, in order to keep food warmer and nicer for a longer time. Additionally, the way this dish was served on a stove made us feel warm even before having a bite, embodying the freshness and cleanliness of the food itself. This dish contained some beef, cabbages, chili peppers, green onions, coriander, Sichuan peppercorn, Chinese star anise and many other seasonings. I was surprised that with that much oil and seasonings, the beef didn’t taste heavy at all; rather, it was fresh, tender, and also good match with rice.

Another dish we had was sweet-sour-fried pork, with carrot slices and leafy greens for a fresh touch. It resembled dishes from a Cantonese tea house or Sichuan restaurant, thanks to the decorations. It tasted juicy and crunchy at the beginning, and the longer it stayed, the less crunchy it would be. I think this one had made great balance of the sour and sweet tastes, and the chefs chose the thinner portion of the pork, making it a light-juicy taste.

Some of the ingredients, for example, coriander, are not so common in Berlin. We asked the owner about their sources, and she told us they were imported from Sichuan.  Even without knowing the full details of the supply chain, we could easily sense the authenticity of the food. This familiarity evoked memories of our homeland, bringing back the tangible, everyday life of that time.

We also engaged in a conversation with the female owner spontaneously. According to our conversation with the restaurant owner, it is managed by her and her husband, and sometimes their daughter, son-in-law, son, and daughter-in-law come and help with this family business. They take orders and pack leftover food. A chef and his assistant work in the kitchen with the help of a dishwasher. Before opening hours, generally, the female owner and her husband prepare ingredients with other staff members. Because all of them are Chinese, they communicate with each other in Chinese specifically in their Wenzhou dialect, but the owner couple speaks perfect German as well, so it’s also possible for them to chat in German. With Chinese consumers the owners speak Mandarin, otherwise, they talk in German.  

Chen’s family migrated to Germany in April 1989, and Berlin wasn’t their first landing point. Actually, they worked in other cities for several months and before the reunification of East and West Berlin, they replanted to this city. During their career as clerks in Berlin, there were not many Chinese restaurants and they decided to open one after retirement to share food with some of their friends. Gladly, they achieved and made their dream a big benefit to all their neighbors and Chinese students who support their business as well. Chen’s family is full of entrepreneurial spirit. Zhejiang province cultivates lots of successful businessmen and “exports” lots of small businessmen to Europe. These people settle in the European continent and promote mutual commercial cooperation and cultural exchange. Though Chen’s family is from Zhejiang, they sell Sichuan cuisine mainly for its popularity all over the world as a trend, and the chef of Chen’s Wok was also trained by a Sichuan culinary master before.

We see Chen’s Wok as a case study to explore how migrants establish their daily lives by running a restaurant in a foreign country. This globalization phenomenon shows that the ingredients, culinary techniques, and dining expectations in this restaurant are shaped by transnational flows of people and cultural influences. In this restaurant, there is always something in between the “homeland” and the customers’ desire for exotic experiences. While Chinese customers can experience the familiarity through the taste of the food, the presence of familiar languages, and the old-style decorations—all of which contribute to its authenticity; non-Chinese consumers can satisfy their appetite for the exotic.

Ying Wang and Dai Yu are students in the Master program Global East Asia at Freie Universität Berlin.