by Julia Gerster

As every morning, a large bus travels the almost empty streets of Minamisanriku. Every now and then it stops in front of a damaged, empty building. Sometimes the building is still intact but abandoned. Sometimes only the skeleton of a building is left. The passengers listen in silence to their guide, while they take pictures of the scenery in this town where more than 3000 houses were destroyed and over 800 people lost their lives.

This bus and many more are part of a post-disaster tourism program in Minamisanriku, one of the coastal municipalities that was heavily hit by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and tsunami. Every morning they take their passengers on a tour through the city to keep alive the memory of a community in danger of being forgotten. While population decline was already a problem before 2011, the disaster only accelerated the dwindling of the region’s citizens. Besides its educational purpose, post-disaster tourism in Minamisanriku was therefore introduced to raise the so-called “related population” (kōryu jinkō), a term that describes people who have connections to the region without living there. Building on previous revitalization programs (Ivy, 1995; Robertson, 1988), some of which are described in this blog, tourists are not only expected to generate income in the disaster-affected areas and turn Tohoku into a hub for disaster education, but also to economically support the recovering regions. By 2016, several campaigns supported by the national Reconstruction Agency in fact raised visitor numbers, even surpassing those of pre-2011, to areas of the Tohoku region that previously only received about 1 percent of the international tourists to Japan (Reconstruction Agency, 2021).

However, several challenges remain regarding disaster tourism. During my ongoing field research about cultural and collective memory of the 3.11 disasters, many local residents shared their concerns about tourism initiatives. Those concerns refer to visitors joining tours through devastated communities and taking pictures of places where friends and family lost their lives. They point to an ongoing debate about visits to places connected to death and disaster, also known as “dark tourism” (Foley and Lennon, 1996; Ide, 2018; Martini and Buda, 2018). Many tourism scholars have stressed ethical concerns regarding dark tourism, including early visits to disaster-stricken places. Consequences could be tourists hampering rescue or recovery efforts, voyeurism and inappropriate behavior of non-locals, such as littering or entering dangerous places or private property (Bornemann, 2018; Rolfes, 2010), as the controversial “Fukushima” episode of the Netflix series “Dark Tourist” showed (Ryall, 2018). One of the most debated aspects of dark tourism is the negative image of tour organizers and participants at places that experienced tragedies. “Some people blamed me for marketizing the disaster,” told Shun Ito, who survived the 2011 tsunami and today guides guests of the local Hotel Kanyo on bus tours through the still recovering Minamisanriku. “Can you imagine how hard it is to be told something like this by friends? But I still believe that we must keep talking about this disaster as to not repeat such tragedies again.”

Yet, the constant risk of natural hazards that Japan faces underlines the educational merits of post-disaster tourism. At the end of his tour, Ito would always explain to visitors: “I want you to remember the distance between the shore and the evacuation centers, and the markers that show the run-up heights of the tsunami. It is because you came here and experienced how long it would take to evacuate to the rooftop or to the mountains that you understand the difficulties of making fast decisions during an emergency situation. It is easy to read about a tsunami of 17 meters height, but you hopefully won’t forget the feeling standing next to a building showing the damage of the tsunami. I want you to remember these impressions so that they will be useful for being better prepared when another disaster occurs.”

Noriko Abe, the owner of Minamisanriku’s Hotel Kanyo further stresses the economic meaning of the hotel industry for the region. “If we stay in business, there will be jobs for butchers, farmers, tea merchants… The fewer people continue to live here, the more important it is to have visitors who support the residents.”

However, the COVID-19 pandemic proved once more the problems connected to what Littlejohn (2020) calls a museumification of Tohoku and a tourism centered reconstruction. Due to the threat of future tsunamis, residential reconstruction is not allowed in the former town center of Minamisanriku. Instead, the San San Shotengai, a shopping area featuring local products and delicacies, was constructed. It stands on top of several meters of artificially raised land right next to the ruins of the disaster management headquarters (bōsai taisaku chōsha) where 43 people died in the tsunami. Disconnected from the residential neighborhood and isolated because of requests to avoid travelling during the COVID-19 pandemic, this shopping area remained mostly empty from 2020 to 2021. The hopes of Noriko Abe and her staff now rely on plans of the government to restart the so called “Go To travel” campaign that yet again tries to use tourism as a recovery method – this time recovery from financial damage caused by the pandemic. Meanwhile the challenges of negotiating post-disaster tourism, concerns of residents, revitalization and disaster education are likely to continue.

References

Bornmann, N. (2018). The ethics of teaching at sites of violence and trauma. Student Encounters with the Holocaust. Palgrave Pivot. New York.

Foley, M. & Lennon, J.J (1996). Editorial: Heart of darkness. International Journal of Heritage Studies, 2(4), pp. 195-197.

Ide, A. (2018). Dark Tourism. Travel related to sad memories. Tokyo, Gentosha. (In Japanese).

Ivy, M. (1995). Discourses of the Vanishing: Modernity, Phantasm, Japan, Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

Littlejohn, A. (2020). Museums of themselves: disaster, heritage, and disaster heritage in Tohoku, Japan Forum, https://doi.org/10.1080/09555803.2020.1758751

Martini, A. and Buda, D. (2018): Dark tourism and affect: framing places of death and disaster. Current Issues in Tourism, 1-14.

Reconstruction Agency (2021). The Process and Prospects for Reconstruction. https://www.reconstruction.go.jp/english/topics/Progress_to_date/index.html

Robertson, J. (1988) Furusato Japan: The Culture and Politics and Nostalgia. International Journal of Politics, Culture, and Society International Journal of Politics, Culture, and Society, 1 (4), pp. 494-518.

Rolfes, M (2010). Poverty tourism: Theoretical reflections and empirical findings on an extraordinary form of tourism. GeoJournal, 75(5), pp. 421-442.

Ryall, J. (2018), Fukushima episode of Netflix’s Dark Tourist sparks offence in Japan South China Morning Post:https://sg.news.yahoo.com/fukushima-episode-netflix-dark-tourist-092531516.html 5.September.2018

Julia Gerster received her PhD in Japanese studies from the Graduate School of East Asian Studies, FU Berlin. She currently works as assistant professor at the International Research Institute of Disaster Science at Tohoku University. Her research interests include the collective and cultural memory of disasters, the role of local culture in disaster recovery, and post-disaster social relations. 

by Maritchu Durand

In recent years, the akiya phenomenon in Japan [1] has received a lot of attention and the renovation of vacant houses has increasingly been associated with rural revitalization in Japan. When researching akiya for my master’s thesis, I found many examples of abandoned houses recently renovated by newcomers on social media. Although all of these houses are unique in their final conceptualization, a significant number share similar designs, colors and materials. In many cases, discrete pastel colors were used for the walls made of natural plaster. Pictures show old refurbished furniture or new sleek and minimalist tables, chairs or countertops of light wood. A clear and high ceiling is another shared feature of many houses and laying the framework bare, highlighting the raw wood structure seems to be another common strategy.

When scrolling through all these pictures, I felt strongly reminded of my grandparents’ house in the southern French countryside and especially of their most recent renovation. When they first moved to the old family house in 1978, the house had stood empty for several decades, and after rewiring the entire house with modern electricity, they installed heating and renovated the rooftop to insure its longevity. But it was not until recently that they decided to renovate the kitchen, which is the heart and soul of the house. It showed many signs of use. The plaster was falling off the walls and the furniture could hardly keep up with a house full of guests during the holidays.

With the help of friends and family, they stripped down the entire kitchen, laid bare the old stone wall, retiled and plastered the sink with pastel colored natural materials. They decided to keep the ceiling as is with the wooden structure visible. Finally, they returned the fireplace to its original look, and refurnished the kitchen with new cupboards and counters made of wood from an old tree they had cut and dried years ago.

When I asked my grandmother about their choices, I realized that their decisions were mostly made for aesthetic, but also for pragmatic reasons. Since they laid the stonewall bare they decided to keep the same color panels on the opposite wall to give the kitchen a soft, natural atmosphere. The  kitchen’s centerpiece, a century old wooden table, inspired the material for the new furniture. The choice for the ceiling, however, although it also gives the kitchen a raw and natural look, was more pragmatic: they mainly wanted to gain a few inches from the already low ceiling in order to get more natural light in the room.

I was surprised that my grandparents’ aesthetic choices during their renovation in many ways resembled those of young urban-rural migrants renovating akiya in Japan. These similarities in aesthetics can be summarized as raw, natural and simple. Although I cannot make any conclusions regarding the reasons that motivated young Japanese to choose these aesthetics, yet, I think it is fascinating to see these similarities in taste across borders and generations. It raises questions about how these ideal images of rural housing emerge, how they spread globally and why they are appealing to such diverse people in different parts of the world.

The personal connection I immediately had with the images of renovated houses, reminded me of what I have learned in the social science method courses in my Japanese studies MA program [2]. I realized that researchers always bring their own experiences to their research projects. It is therefore important to be conscience of this positionality and to reflect on how it will influence one’s research. It might open up new perspectives or introduce researchers to new aspects of their research topic. For me at least, I realized that decisions about how an akiya might be renovated do not only include aesthetic choices, strongly connected to the “natural” or “organic”, but might also be very pragmatic and practical.

[1]
for more articles on akiya, see the article by Jyoti Vasnani or a previous article by Maritchu Durand.

[2]
Please check out the blog “Forschungswerkstatt” led every year by the course on methodology at the Free University of Berlin.

by Ngo Tu Thanh (Frank Tu)

As mentioned in one of my previous posts , tourism is one of the rural revitalization strategies mentioned in the flagship Comprehensive Strategy for Communities, People and Work. However, the ambiguous language used in policy documents still left me wonder what the role of tourism actually is. Curious to find out, I tried to reach out to experts in the field. Fortunately, in mid-October, I had the opportunity to conduct an online interview with another Chiikiryoku Sōzō Advisor for the Ministry of Internal Affairs and Communications. The advisor has more than four decades of experience in rural revitalization. Better yet, her expertise lies in the fields of music, arts, culture, and tourism. Here, I present key takeaways from the interview.

Why is tourism a great strategy?The advisor argues that rural areas are extremely closed communities that heavily rely on personal connections. Moreover, she said, those in powerful positions are mostly conservative “grandpas of the Showa generation” and powerful members of the Chambers of Commerce. Thus, it could be a challenge to develop rural economies from the inside given such strong resistance. Tourism is a great way to revitalize rural areas because its main targets are not local residents, but those coming from the outside. Tourism brings financial resources to rural areas without disturbing the status quo too much. Moreover, tourism also creates jobs, mostly for small and medium-sized businesses.

The promotion of tourism can also contribute to amenity-based development in Japan. According to the advisor, this strategy refers to the use and promotion of cultures and amenities for regional development. Personally, she has participated in many of such tourism promotion projects. For instance, she has organized jazz festivals to attract visitors to rural areas; organized water-theater shows on night-view lakes or promoted IR resorts (integrated resorts that have casinos, theaters, nightlife activities etc.).

Moreover, she also believes that tourism styles have been changing in recent years. For instance, instead of going to Kyoto or visiting Mount Fuji, many wealthy Chinese tourists, for example, are now choosing to take their families to rural Japan for lungs-cleansing tours (haisen tsuā), mikan-picking tours or forest therapy tours. To offer this kind of tourism is a potential strategy to attract visitors, both domestic and inbound, to rural areas.

What should be done to further promote rural tourism? First, the advisor mentioned that disseminating information is crucial for rural revitalization. For instance, to promote rural tourism, it is important to create high-impact visuals that appeal to people around the world. Next, acknowledging issues such as the inconvenient public transportation system in rural areas, she believes that the adoption of Uber into rural areas could also be another potential strategy to promote rural tourism and development. However, she is wary that Japan’s Taxi Associations are still very powerful in Japan and will lobby against it.

Personally, this was a very enlightening interview for me. Aside from the insights about tourism, I was able to hear a lot of new perspectives on gender issues, for example. For instance, the advisor said that Japan is currently dominated by old men at both local and central levels, who might have been hindering Japan’s rural revitalization efforts by clinging onto power for too long. Although these old guards might have played a crucial role in rebuilding Japan after the war, they are now falling behind when it comes to tech-savviness and creativity, compared to younger generations. Hence, a good way forward is for a generational change to take place.

Organizer: Cornelia Reiher (FU Berlin)

Time: November 20, 11:00 – 13:30 (German Time)

Link to the event: http://vsjf.net/die-vsjf/fachgruppen/fachgruppentagung-2021/

Webex-Link:  
Meeting-Link: https://fu-berlin.webex.com/fu-berlin/j.php?MTID=m7e03c93e5d853fc8b6bc3ea0fe3495d9
Meeting-No: 2730 816 5330  
Passwort: 4zUzJbbJB64 

Program:
11:00: Miyako-jima Eco Island: between growth, branding, and conservation (Sarah Bijlsma, GEAS, FU Berlin) 

11:40: Finding home and building futures in the countryside: Urban-rural migration experiences in Wakayama prefecture (Cecilia Luzi, GEAS, FU Berlin) 

12:30: The periphery and the center: Support schemes for urban-rural migration and their local appropriation (Ngo Tu Thanh [Frank Tu], FU Berlin)

13:10: Final discussion

by Galina Khoikhina

Today, railway tourism is highly popular in Japan. Tourist trains сan be created on the basis of trains that are no longer in use, or they can be specially designed for a specific project. One of these trains is the luxury cruise train “Seven Stars in Kyushu”. It was launched by JR Kyūshū on 15 October 2013. In a few days, the train crosses Kyūshū’s prefectures. During this journey, passengers can visit local sights, try local cuisine and participate in workshops. In 2014, “Seven Stars in Kyushu” was chosen as an example of a revitalization project in the MLIT White Paper [1]. The designer of “Seven Stars” Mitooka Eiji collaborated with Japanese artists from Kyūshū. For example, artists from Ōkawa, Fukuoka Prefecture, decorated the interior of the train with the Japanese art of woodworking (kumiko). Another example of cooperation is the porcelain used on board of the train. It is made by potters from Arita, Saga Prefecture [2].

This is a promotion video for the Seven Stars in Kyushu on the occasion of it’s 7th birthday

In my bachelor thesis, I studied the impact of „Seven Stars” on the revitalization of Kyūshū’s rural areas. To answer this question, I conducted a qualitative content analysis of articles that appeared about “Seven Stars” in the Yomiuri Shinbun newspaper. I analyzed articles that came out in the time interval from the launch of the train to the beginning of the pandemic. The research has shown a generally positive effect from an economic point of view. The demand for the train is many times greater than the number of available seats. The train is highly popular and attracts wealthy tourists to the region. Since the train passengers mostly live outside Kyūshū, it can be stated that they bring financial resources to the region. In addition, the articles highlighted the growing interest in Kyūshū as a destination. “Seven Stars” attracts people interested in rail transport. The articles mention the growing popularity of the tourist trains that already existed in Kyūshū, especially those whose route intersects with the luxury train. In addition, the popularity of “Seven Stars” has led to the introduction of new touristic trains, which have a similar effect. The analysis of the articles also revealed an increase in sales of local products associated with “Seven Stars“. People want to buy items like those used on the train and try the same meal as the passengers. The increase in sales of local goods also has a positive impact on the economy.

Trains hold a special place in Japan and come in many variations

Furthermore, there is some evidence of the positive impact of the train on society. Articles repeatedly mentioned that for locals the arrival of the train becomes an event. They cheerfully welcome the train and thus show their hospitality. This initiative of the locals is also encouraged by JR Kyushu. It is important to note that the articles also showed an increase in the motivation of local farmers. Thus, the train also has a positive impact on the local people on a social level. Although the train changes its route regularly and therefore cannot serve as a stable revitalization factor for a particular location, it still has a positive effect on the island in general. To summarize, my bachelor’s research showed that, according to the news coverage in the Yomiuri Shinbun, the introduction of the „Seven Stars in Kyushu” project had an overall positive effect on the economic and social levels.

Even small local trains can be a special attraction

[1]
MLIT (Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism) (2014),  Kokudo kōtsū shiro [White Paper of the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism],  https://www.mlit.go.jp/common/001113556.pdf (Accessed on 25 October 2021). 

[2]
Cruise Train „Seven Stars in Kyushu” (2021), „The train” https://www.cruisetrain-sevenstars.jp/english/train/ (Accessed on 25 October 2021).

Galina Khoikhina is a student in Freie Universität Berlin’s Japanese Studies master‘s program. She has written her bachelor‘s thesis about tourism in rural Japan.